It’s the question as old as Friction Labs Unicorn Dust, how tight should rock climbing shoes be? When I first started climbing, I didn’t think a climbing shoe would be part of the climbing equipment I needed.
Eventually, I rented climbing shoes at the gym and I could barely squeeze into them. I was embarrassed to go back and forth to the front desk to get a new pair of shoes, whispering to the employee each time, “how tight are climbing shoes supposed to be??”
Adam Ondra sizes his shoe so tight that he can only put the shoe on while covering his foot in plastic wrap. A tighter shoe must mean better performance!
Not quite. Footwork is the most critical part of the climbing technique. And there may come a time in our career when we need to tightly compress our feet into a super talon of sending power. Professional climbers are hanging upside down while pressing off a dime’s edge and dyno into a mono pocket.
Newer climbers are looking at routes that resemble a ladder. These routes help us practice keeping our weight on our feet and teach us how to use our feet. But don’t worry, we’ll be dynoing into mono pockets soon enough!
Take a look at the profiles of all of Ondra’s shoes in the above video. They range from neutral shoes to aggressive shoes. The more you climb the different needs you’ll find, the size and shape of shoes can be used on different routes.
How Tight Should Rock Climbing Shoes Be?
As a general rule, when wearing climbing shoes they should be a snug fit. The climbing shoe brings our toes together into a precise beacon of force. We can stand on the tiniest of tiny nubs thanks to climbing shoes.
Next time you try a shoe on, aim for your toes to be gently pressing up against the end of the shoe. A slight bend in your toes is a great indicator that you found the right fit. You will climb better with a more comfortable fit.
But climbers will have different shoes depending on the style of climbing and the amount of time climbing. Imagine cramming your piggies into your aggressive sport climbing shoes and then going for an all-day multipitch!
Keep it simple: if you’re going to be climbing all day wear some comfortable shoes! And if you want to climb that steep overhanging sport route, take your shoes off between burns.
Frequently Asked Questions
What’s the best shoe for crack climbing?
|La Sportiva TC Pro||Will stretch 1/4 to 1/2 size|
|Five Ten Moccasym||Stretch at least one size, many people size down two sizes for performance.|
As climbing styles get specialized, the shoes do as well. Shoes for specialized climbing have different profiles and features. Crack climbing shoes have a neutral profile, they will lie flat on the ground and are not dramatically curved. This profile helps the shoe slide into cracks without catching onto the sides of the wall.
Size your crack climbing shoes comfortably. Try on shoes around your street shoe size and find a size where your toes are gently curled.
What’s the best shoe for sport climbing?
|La Sportiva Katana||Will stretch 1/4 to 1/2 size|
|Evolv Shaman||Minimal stretch (due to synthetic material)|
Sport routes require our best footwork possible from us. A loosely fit shoe can make us slip off the climb just before we reach the chains.
Size down a half size to a full size from your street shoe when first trying them on. The climbing shoe is going to be uncomfortable and snug, but it should not be painful. If you are developing hot spots, your toes are going numb, or your feet feel like they’re about to explode — these shoes are going to hinder your climbing performance more than they will help.
Can a Climbing Shoe be too loose?
Try stepping on a tiny dime edge with a loose shoe. It’s going to be near impossible to edge with a shoe flopping over your floppers. But a looser shoe can have some advantages when slab climbing.
Friction is the name of the game in slab climbing. A shoe’s rubber needs to make as much contact as possible with the rock. This contact prevents us from cheese grating our way down the wall. A looser shoe will allow more rubber to touch the rock and keep us sending.
Do climbing shoes stretch out?
Yes, some materials like leather will stretch.
If you need to stretch out your shoes here are a few ways to stretch them out!
- Put on a pair of thick wool socks and then put your shoes on. Then kick back and watch some Climbing videos! Wear them for 15-20 minutes and then give your feet a break. Repeat this process a few times.
- Stuff as many socks as you can into your shoes. Then get a blow dryer and heat up the shoe for about a minute. Once the shoe is warm to the touch, use your hand to force the socks around in the shoe. Pushing the socks will stretch your rock climbing shoe.
- Lace up your climbing shoes and hop in the shower! Keep your shoes on a for a few hours after wearing them in the shower. Your rock shoes will stretch and mold to the contours of your foot.
Do climbing shoes have to hurt?
No climbing shoes don’t have to hurt, and pain is a good sign that you should size up. There are very specific scenarios you could need a shoe sized so tight that it hurts. But chances are if you’re just starting out, climbing in the gym for training, or out having fun, you do not want your shoe to be hurting your feet.
Your foot shape plays a part too, some shoes will just simply not fit your foot. My toes are extremely long, my middle toes are longer than my big toe. There are some shoes that just feel so uncomfortable due to the shape of the toe box.
You can do serious damage to foot by stuffing them into overly tight shoes. There are many ligaments and little bones in our feet, treat them nicely so we can climb for a long time!
Why are climbing shoes supposed to be tight?
Climbing shoes are supposed to be tight because we want pinpoint precision accuracy when putting our weight on tiny chips. Especially when climbing outdoors, some of the footholds we need to stand on seem minuscule. Having a shoe that fits like a glove helps get the accuracy and precision we need.
Do climbing shoes run small?
It dependson the brand, but most climbing shoes will be around your street shoe size. Find a store to try on shoes and start at your street shoe size. Depending on the materials of the shoe, the shoe will stretch. You can size down until the shoe is a bit uncomfortable in the store and the shoe will stretch out after a few days of climbing.
Keep adding shoes to the shoe quiver! And if you’re worried that your shoes are too tight, prioritize the comfort of your feet! We love to repost #shoequivers from our community. Give our Instagram a follow and send us photos of your shoe quiver!