Climbing Gear Reviews ┬╗ La Sportiva Miura Lace Review

La Sportiva Miura Lace Review

If you’re looking for the best climbing shoe to rule them all, then versatility is key. An all around climbing shoe means that the shoe can handle bouldering, sport climbing, or trad climbing. You need to find the best of the best climbing shoes.

The La Sportiva Miura Lace is a shoe that fits the bill. Ever since I first bought this shoe at the New River Gorge, I’ve been in love with everything from how it feels, looks, and most importantly how it climbs. I quickly moved the Miura Lace to one of my top choices for climbing shoes.

La Sportiva Miura Lace Review

Pros

  • A versatile climbing shoe that I have worn bouldering, sport climbing and multi pitch trad climbing.
  • Excellent balance of sensitivity and stiffness for confident climbing.
  • Exceptional grip for smearing and toe-hooking.
  • One of the fastest lace up shoes I have worn thanks to the lace up closure system.
  • PD 75 last keeps the shoe slightly aggressive but still comfortable

Cons

  • Requires an initial break-in period for a comfortable fit.
  • May feel tight out of the box.
  • Higher price point compared to entry-level climbing shoes.
  • Limited color options available.

Women’s (Low Volume) Version

For female climbers, La Sportiva also offers a women’s version of the Miura Lace that is specifically designed for a different foot shape.

Depending on the retailer, you may also see these marked as LV which stands for lower volume.

The women’s version maintains the same outstanding performance and versatility as the men’s version while providing a tailored fit for enhanced comfort and precision for different foot shapes.

Here are some features of the women’s (low volume) version of the shoe.

  • Low Volume Specific Last: The shoe is built on a different specific last that takes into account a narrower heel and lower volume.
  • Sizing Options: The women’s version is available in a range of different versions compared to the men’s. You may be able to find a half size smaller in the women’s version vs. the mens.
  • Design: In my opinion, the women’s version looks a lot cooler than the men’s. It took me a while for the lime men’s version to grow on me, but the women’s looks fresh straight out of the box.

Don’t let “men’s” vs “women’s” climbing shoes deter you from trying one or the other on. I have worn women’s shoes that felt fantastic on my narrow foot. I highly recommend heading to a store in person so you can try on a variety of shoes before you buy.

Features

  • Stiff sole and 4mm of Vibram XS Edge Rubber provide excellent support on small edges and crack climbing.
  • Pull tabs offer durability and ease of use, providing confidence during climbs.
  • Fast lace up system makes it quick and easy to get these shoes on
  • Slingshot rand gives your foot a sturdy platform to stand on

Rubber

The La Sportiva Miura Lace features high-quality rubber that plays a crucial role in its exceptional performance and durability.

La Sportiva utilizes their proprietary rubber compound, Vibram XS Edge, to provide climbers with outstanding grip, sensitivity, and precision on a variety of climbing surfaces.In my experience, I only notice the difference in rubber between an entry level shoe and the higher end.

I’m a big fan of the combination of the edge rubber and the stiffness of the Miura when I’m standing on tiny edges. The shoe can also be resoled with new rubber.

  • Vibram Edge: The Miura Lace is equipped with Vibram┬« XS Edge rubber, which is renowned for its excellent edging capabilities. This rubber compound offers a perfect balance between hardness and stickiness, allowing climbers to confidently stand on small edges and micro footholds. The XS Edge rubber delivers optimal performance and exceptional durability, ensuring that the shoe maintains its grip even after extended use.
  • Thickness: The Miura Lace features a moderate thickness of rubber, providing a good balance between sensitivity and durability. The precise thickness is designed to offer sufficient protection against abrasions and provide stability on small footholds without compromising the sensitivity needed for precise foot placements.
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Performance

In my experience, the La Sportiva Miura excels in all performance categories, which makes it a great shoe to have if you could only choose one.

Smearing

When I bought this shoe closer to my street shoe size, my smearing comfort increased greatly. I had another pair of the Miuras that were sized for sport climbing (tight!) and I hated smearing in them.

I was surprised at how well the shoe smeared. Even though the shoe has 4mm of rubber on the sole, I was still able to feel features of the rock and stick to it. I did have to make a mental effort to inspect the rock and find features so I could trust standing on them due to the thick rubber sole.

Heel Hooking

The Miura does have a rubber patch that runs up the heel to give you extra grip when heel hooking.

It will do the job for heel hooks but it does not excel.

Toe Hooking

I’m not a fan of toe hooking withe La Sportiva Miura.

Every time I’m toe hooking, I’m climbing in the gym and that means on high texture holds that have a lot of friction. Since the Miura does not have a rubber patch on top of the toe box, the upper lining always looks scratched up.

Look for a more bouldering specific shoe if you’re gonna be a lot of toe hooks.

Crack Climbing

Tommy Caldwell has climbed El Capitan in a pair of Miuras, so you know that they work well on cracks too.

The shoe has a slight downturn, but if you size properly so the shoe fits comfortably. Crack climbing will be a breeze for you.

Comfort

The toe box on this shoe is narrower than other shoes like the La Sportiva Katana Lace. If you don’t like how the toe box feels when you try the Miura on, consider the Katana Lace.

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Miura VS vs. Miura Lace

La Sportiva offers two popular shoe models: the Miura Lace and the Miura Velcro.

The main difference being that they are lace up vs velcro climbing shoes. While both shoes share the same renowned Miura name, they do have some key differences.

Closure System:

  • Miura Lace: The Miura Lace features a traditional lace-up closure system. The laces allow for a more customizable fit, enabling climbers to adjust the tension according to their preference. I love how fast I can lace up the Miuras thanks to their fast lace closure system.
  • Miura VS: The Miura Velcro utilizes a hook-and-loop Velcro closure system. This closure system offers quick and convenient on/off functionality, making it easier to put on and take off the shoes. The Velcro straps provide a secure fit and allow for easy adjustments during climbs.

Fit and Adjustability:

  • Miura Lace: With its lace-up closure, the Miura Lace provides a more precise and adjustable fit. Climbers can fine-tune the tension of each section of the shoe, such as the forefoot, midfoot, and heel, to achieve an optimal balance of comfort and performance. The lacing system also accommodates different foot shapes and volumes.
  • Miura VS: The Miura Velcro offers a snug and secure fit with its hook-and-loop Velcro straps. While not as customizable as the lace-up system, the Velcro straps provide good adjustability and allow for quick and easy fit adjustments on the go. The straps ensure a consistent and reliable fit throughout climbs.

Breaking In The La Sportiva Miura Lace Shoes

Breaking in climbing shoes is a common practice to ensure a comfortable and optimal fit.

While the La Sportiva Miura Lace offers a precise and snug fit, it may initially feel tight or stiff. Here are a few ways to break in most shoes.

  1. Wear them around the house: Put on your Miura Lace shoes and wear them around the house for short periods. This allows your feet to gradually adjust to the shoes’ shape and materials. Perform simple movements like flexing your feet and standing on your toes to help the shoes mold to your feet.
  2. Indoor climbing sessions: Take your Miura Lace shoes to an indoor climbing gym for a few sessions. Engaging in climbing activities will help the shoes conform to your feet’s contours and provide a better fit. Start with easier climbs to allow your feet to adapt to the shoes’ stiffness and gradually increase the difficulty level.
  3. Bouldering sessions: Bouldering provides an excellent opportunity to break in your climbing shoes. With shorter and more intense climbs, you can focus on footwork and gain confidence in the shoes’ performance. Spend some time on different types of holds and foot placements to help the shoes become more flexible and responsive.
  4. Outdoor sport climbing: Once you feel comfortable and confident in your Miura Lace shoes, take them for some outdoor sport climbing sessions. The shoes will benefit from the natural rock texture and varied terrain, allowing them to further mold to your feet. As you climb on different routes, the shoes will gradually become more supple and responsive.

Sizing

I sized these shoes down one full size from my street shoe size, which is normally a size 13 and I got the Miura in EU size 45.5.

I have the Miura and the Katana lace in the same size and I immediately noticed that the Katana lace has a much roomier toe box and feels a bit longer length wise. When I wear my Katanas my toes lie flat but in the Miuras the toes are slightly curled.

Going down a half size or a full size from your street shoe size will get you a good sport climbing fit and any more than that will make the shoe a lot roomier.

Shoe Materials

The La Sportiva Miura is made out of :

  • 4mm Vibram XS Edge rubber sole
  • 100% recycled polyester laces
  • 1.1mm LapsoFlex midsole
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Author
Rob
Rob developed ORB to help himself categorize and find all the outdoor gear he needed at great prices. He loves writing about the outdoors and climbing. Rob is a certified Single Pitch Instructor through the AMGA.

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